1. Tools of choice! Acrylic paint in [pink], [mustard], [gold glitter], [bronze], [silver glitter], [silver/gray], [navy], interior white paint, paintbrushes, ruler, pencil, linen fabric, and a canvas.
2. Stretch It! Stretch and staple the linen fabric onto the canvas pulling tight.
3. Mark It! Using a pencil and ruler, sketch out your pattern, remembering that every line should create a triangle as the end result. Crystal varied her pieces to add depth and intricacy, which is what drew me this piece. Well, that and the color combinations! Make some triangles long, diagonal and skinny. Make others pointy side up. Or point down. Give the edges of your piece jaggedness or even make some of the triangles go off the edge (a strong art strategy that is often used). This will take a long time :)
4. Colorize It! Fill in your desired pattern one color at a time. Get close to your pencil marks (like 1/16") but stay away from them if you are painting a dark color since the white outline will have a hard time covering it.
My "mustard" was NOT mustard, so I raided my art closet and added bronze and a bit of burnt orange. It took a lot of phenagaling (sp?) and I got super frustrated, but I'm happy that I found a decent shade of mustard. I mixed the gray, pink, and a drop of "mustard-now-known-as-canary-yellow-because-it's-not-mustard" to white paint to get the lighter shades.
5. Outline It! Wait for all paint to thoroughly dry. Then outline with your white paint! You can free-hand it. I started using a ruler and I was over it within 2 tries. This will also take a looong time! :)
I originally thought I could outline in a white Sharpie paint pen. The answer is "no, you can't". Maybe on paper, but not on this linen. It was just so diluted. So instead I used some interior paint that I had laying around.
: NEW FENCE! :
This month, we also tore down our old rotting, ugly red fence, and built a new one out of good smelling cedar! It took 4 days from about 1pm - 9pm, with the most challenging part of removing old, concreted and rotten posts taking up a good chunk of time. Everybody's yard is different, but here are the general steps for how we did it.
Tools: bags of concrete, hand saw, level, nail gun, long nails, hammer, table saw, wedge, shovel, measuring tape, pencil, cedar 6' tall pickets, cedar 2x4 runners, and cedar posts.
1. Measure length of your existing fence. Count the # of existing posts you have. Write/Draw it down. A bag of concrete will probably work for every 2 posts. Count the # of bags of concrete you'll need. We got 80 lb. bags.
2. Each section from post to post will require 3 horizontal runners for a 6 foot high fence. Use that to determine how many runners you'll need. Also check out your gates. 2x4's will be used there too for structure. Take note of any cuts you will need to make and try to see if you can buy something that will use both pieces so that you don't waste wood.
3. Know the width of your fence pickets. Use that to determine how many pickets to buy.
4. We used the same pickets to frame the top and bottom of our fence. Use the overall length of your fence to determine how many 6 foot long pickets you would need for the top. Double it to include the bottom.
5. Shop! You want industrial strength nails but also take care to note the length of the nail. You don't want to nail your pickets to your runners and have pointy ends poking out! Likewise, you don't want your nails too short.
6. Remove old gate hardware/hinges and save in a safe spot. Use a hand saw to cut your fence into sections (from post to post) and kick/tear/hammer the old fence off of the old posts.
7. Dig out the old posts and use those holes for your new posts. (Not as easy as it sounds)
8. Install all posts with concrete, making sure that they are in a straight line with the others and are level. You don't want your fence to "dip" in or out.
9. Install runners, working one section at a time. We did the bottom runner, leveled it, measured 6 feet up and lined up the top runner so that the top edge hits the 6 foot mark. Measure the halfway mark and install the middle runner. Then move on to the next section lining the edges up and leveling. Work out any angles as you level your runners. Our land slopes so we "stair-stepped" some sections. In the side yard, it slopes like crazy, so we kept it looking clean by going straight across. I'd rather have sloping land as an eyesore than a sloping fence!
10. Picket away! Actually, this takes awhile because we lined up each picket side by side to make sure the tops/bottoms were even with the top and bottom runners. Any pickets extending past the top is marked and trimmed. Since our land slopes, it was important that we checked each picket.
11. Nail pickets to top, middle and bottom runners. Where your gates are, picket away on the hinge side, but leave a space between pickets where your handle will go (it'll basically be the post).
12. Install top and bottom frames.
13. Install hinges where your gate will be. It's ok, it'll be all picketed up.
14. Use the hand saw to cut out your gate. On the hinge side, cut straight down all the way. Beware of the hinges! On the handle side, only cut the runners. Use a 45 degree cut on the runners so that your gate will piece together like a puzzle. Sand away, then attach the other hardware.
|hinge side - straight cuts on runners|
|handle side - 45s on runners only|
15. Make 45 degree cuts on 2x4s and frame the inside of your gates. This will prevent it from sagging and give it support.
16. Stain if you'd like!
Whew! Would you tackle your own fence or hire out? I will say that ours only cost us about $1,500 for our 100 feet of fencing.